Good edging turns a messy garden into a clean, intentional space. Below are 30 distinct edging and border ideas, each with what it looks like, when to choose it, materials and cost considerations, step-by-step installation basics, maintenance, plant pairings, design tips, and common pitfalls.
Use this as a one-stop reference to pick the right edging for style, budget, function and durability.
1. Brick Soldier Course
What it is: Bricks set vertically on their short ends or laid flat in a tight row to form a classic, crisp border.
Best for: Formal cottage gardens, pathways, vegetable beds, and edging close to lawns.
- Materials: Standard clay bricks (reclaimed or new), sand, mortar (optional), landscape fabric (optional).
- Estimated cost: Moderate; reclaimed bricks reduce cost but increase labour.
- Installation (basic): 1) Mark line and dig a trench 4–6" deep. 2) Compact base with crushed stone and sand. 3) Lay bricks tightly together, for permanent edge, bed them in mortar; for a flexible edge, set on compacted sand and backfill. 4) Use a rubber mallet to level and finish by tamping soil up against bricks.
- Maintenance: Low; repoint mortar if using, reset any heaved bricks after freeze/thaw.
- Design tips: Use reclaimed bricks for rustic charm; soldier course gives a vertical line that highlights formal geometry.
2. Natural Stone Flagstone Edge
What it is: Irregular natural stones arranged as a low, informal border or stepping-edge.
Best for: Wild, naturalistic gardens, Mediterranean or xeriscape styles, slopes requiring stability.
- Materials: Flagstones, gravel base, coarse sand.
- Installation: Excavate, add compacted gravel, set stones partly buried so top surfaces are slightly above soil level. Fill gaps with sand or low-growing groundcover.
- Pros/cons: Very attractive and durable; requires heavier lifting and skill to fit stones nicely.
- Planting pairings: Creeping thyme, sedum, low lavenders in gaps.
3. Paver/Lintel Edging (Concrete Pavers)
What it is: Manufactured concrete pavers used as a continuous or staggered border.
Why pick it: Precise, modern look; consistent height; easy to source in many sizes and colours.
- Installation tips: Set on compacted aggregate and sand, use polymeric sand between joints for stability, cut as needed with saw. Can be installed flush or raised.
- Maintenance: Weed control in joints, occasional releveling.
4. Timber Sleepers / Railroad Sleepers
What it is: Large, horizontal timber beams creating raised borders or retaining edges.
Best for: Raised beds, terrace steps, robust rustic looks, slope retention.
- Materials: Timber sleepers or treated railway sleepers, stainless bolts for stacking, gravel for drainage.
- Installation basics: Excavate a shallow trench, set first sleeper on compacted base, bolt successive sleepers, add geotextile if used against soil to reduce rot. Consider timber treatment toxicity if growing edibles (choose food-safe or use a root barrier).
- Pros: Strong, long lasting; creates instant raised beds. Cons: Heavy, may be treated with creosote (avoid near edibles). Use recycled when possible.
5. Corten (Weathering Steel) Edging
What it is: Narrow steel strips, typically 1–3mm thick, that rust to a stable orange patina (Corten) or can be powder-coated.
Best for: Modern, minimalist gardens; clean sculptural lines; delineating gravel beds and lawns.
- Installation: Drive spike into trenched soil; easily connect pieces with YardSteel quick connect. For curves, bends and corners, use thinner and more flexible profiles or score and bend carefully.
- Maintenance: Low, patina stabilises. Protect nearby surfaces from runoff rust staining during early weathering.
- Plant pairing: Grasses, succulents, modern perennials.
6. Galvanized Steel or Aluminum Edging
What it is: Lightweight, durable metal edging with a clean profile; slightly cheaper than corten and doesn’t rust.
Best for: Lawns, flowerbeds, flexible curves, DIY edging that needs to survive mower contact.
- Pros: Flexible, long-lasting, minimal visual intrusion. Cons: Less sculptural than corten.
- Installation: Drive spike into trenched soil; easily connect pieces with YardSteel quick connect. For curves, bends and corners, use thinner and more flexible profiles or score and bend carefully.
7. Plastic or Recycled Rubber Edging
What it is: Molded plastic rolls, recycled rubber or composite log rolls providing a simple wheel-friendly edge.
Best for: Tight budgets, curved beds, temporary solutions, playgrounds.
- Pros: Inexpensive, easy to install, flexible. Cons: Shorter lifespan, can look cheap if visible.
- Installation: Trench, stake panels in place, backfill. Consider anchoring in high-traffic areas.
8. Concrete Curbs - Formed & Poured
What it is: Cast concrete curbing poured in-situ into forms for a continuous, sculpted edge.
Why use it: Extremely durable, customizable shapes (rolled, flat, angled), professional finish for driveways and formal borders.
- Installation: Build formwork, vibrate concrete to remove air, tool the face for desired profile, cure properly to avoid cracking. Use expansion joints for long runs.
- Maintenance: Minimal; can be stained or painted; cracks can be patched.
9. Gravel Strip with Steel or Timber Restraint
What it is: A narrow band of decorative gravel separated from the lawn or planting by an orthogonal restraint.
Best for: Modern xeriscapes, drainage strips, pathways, low-maintenance borders.
- Installation tips: Lay geotextile, set restraint, add crushed rock or decorative gravel, compact lightly. This is effective where water needs to pass through or to prevent soil splash onto paths.
10. Mulch Bed with Defined Edge
What it is: Simple soil/mulch edging created by cutting a trench between lawn and bed, leaving a clean vertical face.
Best for: Budget-conscious gardeners wanting a neat, soft edge without materials.
- How to do it: Use an edging spade or half-moon edger to create a 2–4" deep vertical cut, remove turf, maintain clean cut by recutting twice a year.
- Maintenance: Frequent: re-cut edge to prevent grass creeping into bed. Cheap and visually subtle.
11. Living Edges - Low Hedges (e.g., Boxwood)
What it is: Planting a continuous line of small shrubs like boxwood, dwarf holly or hebe to form a soft, green border.
Best for: Formal or cottage gardens where a living, sculptable line is desired.
- Installation: Plant specimens at recommended spacing, stake until established, trim regularly to keep shape.
- Pros: Aesthetic, eco-friendly, habitat for wildlife. Cons: Requires pruning, irrigation and more initial cost.
12. Ornamental Grass Curtain
What it is: A ribbon of clumping ornamental grasses (e.g., Pennisetum, Miscanthus) used as a natural, flowing edge.
Why choose it: Movement, texture and seasonal interest; good for informal edges and for softening rigid lines.
- Planting notes: Space rhizome-free clumpers to avoid invasiveness; cut back annually.
13. Gabion Edge
What it is: Wire baskets (gabions) filled with stones or recycled materials placed as a low wall or edge.
Best for: Industrial, contemporary gardens, or sites needing erosion control and mass.
- Installation: Assemble baskets, place where needed, fill with durable stone; tie and compact.
- Pros: Very sturdy, long lasting. Cons: Heavy, more costly and visually dominant.
14. Pebble or Shell Edge
What it is: A decorative strip of pebbles, river stones or crushed shell as a casual edging.
Best for: Beach-style gardens, coastal properties, Mediterranean planting.
- Care tips: Use landscape fabric below to reduce weed growth; replenish periodically.
15. Low Stone Gabion/Stacked Stone
What it is: Hand-stacked small stones or a single-course mortarless dry stone wall as the border.
When it shines: Natural rustic and cottage styles; good for terracing slight slopes.
- Installation: Select flat stones, place foundation stones, stagger joints. For permanence, use mortar.
16. Scalloped Concrete Edging
What it is: Precast concrete sections with a curved scallop face that are slotted together for a decorative, repeating border.
Benefits: Affordable, easy DIY install; available in many profiles.
- Installation: Trench and tamp base, set sections flush, backfill and compact. Replace individual pieces if damaged.
17. Recycled Bottle or Glass Edge
What it is: Bottles (neck down) or glass pieces embedded in soil or concrete to make a colorful, creative edge.
Considerations: Visual impact is high; use caution with sharp glass and ensure necks are embedded securely; best for low traffic decorative areas.
18. Brick Herringbone or Basketweave Band
What it is: Bricks laid flat in decorative patterns forming a wider border that can double as a walkway edge or path shoulder.
- Design tip: Wider bands (6–12") create a robust feature; match mortar or sand joint colour to accommodate style.
19. Raised Concrete Till (Planter Edge)
What it is: Low raised concrete planters or poured square edging used to contain soil and create a definitive bed edge.
Why use it: Great for modern gardens, restaurants, or where seating or extra structure is desired. Adds soil volume for planting.
20. Vertical Paver or Soldier Stone (Tall Edge)
What it is: Taller vertical pavers (6–8" height) used to create a clear mow line and prevent grass invasion.
Good for: Areas with mower traffic and when you want a strong visual separation.
21. Edge with Stepping Stones
What it is: Stepping stones set in the edge area to create a usable surface while defining the bed.
Best for: Cottage and eclectic gardens, informal path edges.
22. Living Edge with Groundcovers
Idea: Use low groundcovers (e.g., ajuga, Irish moss, thyme) in a continuous band to softly define a bed.
Advantages: Insect habitat, erosion control, low hardscape cost; must be selected for growth habit to prevent spread into lawn.
23. Recycled Concrete (Rubble) Edge
What it is: Broken concrete pieces or salvaged pavers arranged for a rough, ecological edge.
Consider: Use as a rustic accent; combine with plants to disguise sharp angles; good way to reuse materials.
24. Timber Battens / Log Roll Edge
What it is: Half logs or timber batten rolls forming a rounded, soft border.
Use: Natural play areas, casual cottage beds; secure with stakes and replace as they decay.
25. Vertical Brick Edge with Cap
What it is: A single or double row of brick set vertically with a capping row to form a small retaining edge.
When to use: Where a small height difference (4–12") needs holding back and you want a polished look.
26. Edging with Living Perennials (Tall Edge)
What it is: Use a band of taller perennials or ornamental shrubs to form a living wall between lawn and deeper beds (e.g., lavender border, dwarf grasses).
Design: This blurs edge lines and adds seasonal interest - good for cottage and wildlife gardens.
27. Interlocking Paver Edge with Lawn Strip
What it is: A narrow strip of interlocking pavers set between lawn and garden to create a durable mow strip that’s visually neat.
Maintenance: Easy mowing, low weed ingress when properly sealed.
28. Reclaimed Metal Objects (Wheels, Rails) as Accent Edging
What it is: Salvaged ironwork, wagon wheels, or short rail segments embedded at intervals to add focal accents along a border.
Best for: Rustic, industrial or historic garden themes. Use as accents rather than continuous edging.
29. Vertical Concrete Pavers with Planter Cap
What it is: Taller modular concrete units that double as planters - useful where you want to contain soil and add height simultaneously.
30. Temporary Seasonal Edging (Fabric, Straw Bales)
What it is: Using straw bales, fabric boards, or temporary plastic at the edge for seasonal beds or new plantings while they establish.
Use case: New construction, winter protection, or when you anticipate changing bed layout next season.
Common considerations when choosing edging
Function vs form: Decide whether your priority is to control grass invasion, hold soil, create a mowing strip, improve drainage or purely aesthetics. One solution might not cover all needs.
Height & profile: A 2–4" shallow edge is enough to separate materials visually. A 6–12"+ edge is needed to retain soil or create a raised bed.
Material compatibility: Match the edging material to other hardscaping. Corten suits rusty, modern schemes; brick and stone pair with traditional styles; timber suits rustic gardens.
Installation depth & frost: In cold areas dig below frost line for permanent rigid edges to avoid heave, or allow flexible materials to float with freeze/thaw.
Drainage & root barriers: Where edging acts as a retaining element, include drainage and consider root barriers to stop roots from pushing or travelling beneath edges.
Maintenance: Hard edges (metal, concrete, stone) are low maintenance but sometimes costly. Living or mulch edges are cheaper but need ongoing upkeep.
Tools & materials checklist (general)
- Shovel, spade and trenching tool (half-moon edger)
- Rubber mallet
- Spirit level and string line
- Compactor or tamper
- Landscape fabric and stakes
- Crushed rock / compactable base material
- Sand, mortar, concrete (as required)
- Cutting tools: angle grinder, masonry saw or tin snips (depending on material)
- Gloves, eye protection, knee pads
Design tips - composition, colour and scale
- Scale: Keep material scale in proportion to the garden. Large boulders or gabions overwhelm a small urban garden.
- Repetition: Use the same edging material across a garden to create cohesion, or pair two materials (e.g., corten + gravel) for contrast.
- Transition zones: Use softer living borders where you want a gradual visual transition; choose sharp hard edges where you need practical separation.
- Colour: Match or complement paving, house brick and major features. Neutral tones (grey, rust, sand) are versatile.
- Curves vs straight lines: Curves work best with flexible steel/plastic and stone; straight, rigid lines suit timber, concrete and bricks.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
- Insufficient depth: Rigid edging needs a proper compacted base - shallow installs lead to heave and tilt.
- Poor drainage: Failing to provide drainage behind retaining edges causes pressure and failure over time.
- Wrong profile: Choosing a very low profile where mower contact occurs leads to damage - use taller, robust edges in such zones.
- Using treated timber for edibles: Avoid chemically treated sleepers next to vegetable beds unless lined with a food-safe barrier.
- Ignoring soil level changes: Mulch settles - top up and recut edges seasonal to maintain crisp lines.
How to choose: quick decision guide
Budget low + temporary: Mulch bed cut or plastic edge.
Budget moderate + desire durability: Concrete pavers, bricks, or steel edging.
High budget + dramatic statement: Corten, gabion or poured concrete curbing.
Plant-heavy, wildlife friendly: Living hedges or groundcover bands.
Installation workflow (universal steps)
- Plan the run - mark with string line, hose or spray paint and measure length.
- Excavate to depth based on material (typically 4–8" for many hard edges, deeper for retaining edges).
- Install compacted base (gravel/aggregate) where needed to prevent settling.
- Place edging material per manufacturer or masonry practice; use stakes/anchors for profiles that require it.
- Backfill and compact soil on the planting side; finish with mulch, gravel or turf depending on the border type.
- Check for level and alignment, install sealing or joint filler where required (e.g., polymeric sand between pavers).
Sustainability & reclaimed-material ideas
Look for reclaimed bricks, salvaged sleepers (ensure they’re not toxic), broken pottery, river rocks, or concrete rubble. Use local stone to reduce transport footprint. Recycled rubber edging and reused metal can be good low-impact solutions.
Accessibility & mowing considerations
For wheelchair access or frequent mower use, pick flush or low-profile durable edging (steel, concrete paver strip) that leaves a smooth transition. Avoid sharp vertical lips that catch wheels or mower blades.
Seasonal & climate concerns
In cold climates choose materials and installation that resist frost heave: deeper bases, flexible steel that can accommodate movement, or segmented concrete with expansion joints. In wet climates prioritize drainage behind retaining edges and choose rot-resistant timbers or metal over untreated wood.
Final checklist before you start
- Call local utilities if digging deep.
- Measure and purchase 10% extra material for cuts/waste.
- Consider long-term maintenance - who will maintain it? How often will it need releveling or weed control?
- Decide plant pairings and soil amendments before final backfilling.
Conclusion - Pick edges that solve a problem
Good edging does at least one of the following well: contain soil, provide a clean mowing line, improve drainage, add structure, or enhance aesthetics.
Match the material to the garden’s function, scale and your willingness to maintain it.
Whether you choose a living border, sleek corten steel, a reclaimed brick soldier course or a budget mulch cut, thoughtful edging completes the design and makes maintenance easier.